by Don Osmond
Dogwood is one of the most difficult woody invaders to control in prairies because it has a deep bag of tricks. Like many woody plants, it readily resprouts when grazed, cut or burned, sometimes producing more stems after the disturbance than before. It likely has access to deeper water sources than prairie grass, allowing it to ride out droughts. The biggest advantage it has is combining a large clonal root system that resists herbicides with a substantial underground reserve of starch, the fuel needed to resprout after disturbance.
I recently tried to control dogwood in a remnant & failed miserably. This post is my attempt to tap the scientific literature to hopefully inform a new approach that reduces the effort needed over time rather than increasing it, as well as suggesting needed experiments. I used Google Scholar to locate 92 open access studies & 38 abstracts (full text behind a paywall). This included a small number of Cornus racemosa & drummondii studies, papers on other deciduous clonal shrubs to get an idea of general woody plant behavior, studies of woody plant resprouting mechanisms, studies on root storage dynamics & discussions on woody plant encroachment in grasslands. I weighted the studies using various criteria & combined them with a small number of high quality field reports.
My treatment failure
In 2022-23 I performed dormant season cut stump herbicide treatment on multiple patches that were somewhat isolated from each other, but it’s hard to know what is going on underground, so I may not have treated the entire clone, as there are other patches in the area. 20% Garlon 4 equivalent in bark oil was meticulously applied with a low pressure stream nozzle to all but the tiniest stumps with no snow on the ground & 48 hours precipitation free after application.
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Dogwood (seen in the foreground) is scattered over much of the remnant. |
One of the shrub walls where I cut and stump-herbicided (dogwood has red leaves).
The next growing season all was good. Very few resprouts occurred, mostly at patch edges where there were some scattered uncut plants outside the patch. Perhaps the root system outside the patch counteracted herbicide on the patch fringes. Even though I looked carefully, it’s possible I missed tiny resprouts in the thatch, so this summer I’ll look harder at a clone I cut stump herbicided in fall 2024. The positive result of few resprouts was a go signal to continue cut stump the next dormant season of 2023-24. The site was burned in March 2024. What I saw in August was demoralizing. There were resprouts, which didn’t surprise me because fire triggers resprouting in woody plants. But it was widespread & abundant in patches treated 0.5 years ago as well as 1.5 years ago, much different than a year before. It’s as if the burn had counteracted the herbicide effects (by a nutrient pulse?). Of course, I don’t know what the result would be if no burn had occurred. Perhaps the herbicide “wears off”? Or the combination of herbicide & the shading of dense grass prevented resprouts the year before? Did the burn stimulate rhizome buds that were not stimulated by cut stump herbiciding? Lots of theories. One thing I noticed is resprout density was lower, sometimes zero, in the densely populated patch center. My theory for that is the denser, larger diameter stems in the patch center translocated more herbicide to the root than the more scattered, small diameter stems in the patch fringes.
What is NSC (nonstructural carbohydrates)? (also called TNC: total nonstructural carbohydrates)
Control of dogwood was not going to be easy, so I needed to get acquainted with the plant I was dealing with & how it functions. For most plants, leaf photosynthesis leads to the production of NSC, mainly consisting of sugars & starch, which is used for many plant processes including storage. The main purpose of storage in the form of starch is to provide fuel for growth when leaves are not present due to dormancy (e.g. for bud break & initial leaf out) & in the event disturbance removes or hinders photosynthetic ability. Examples of disturbance are grazing, burning, cutting, disease, insect defoliation and drought. In clonal plants, injury to only a portion of the clone could remobilize NSC from the nearest uninjured stems (which also store NSC for short term use) rather than the main rhizome. Therefore such injury may not affect NSC stores, but I couldn’t find a study that confirms this.
Seasonal variation of NSC in root storage pools
Many species of woody trees & shrubs have a similar pattern. In early spring, root NSC concentrations drop to a minimum to supply the resources for leaf emergence & expansion. Then there is a rapid increase as the resprouts or branch leaves start photosynthesizing, sending resources to the roots, replenishing the low NSC reserves. The increase continues until it reaches a peak in mid-summer to early fall (depending on the species), then slowly decreases over the dormant season as it supplies respiration needs. We are interested in the minimum seasonal level because theoretically, removing stem photosynthesis at that time means root NSC will be tapped to fuel new resprouts, lowering root NSC even further. The hope is that yearly cutting at that time will reduce NSC in steps until the plant dies or is severely weakened. NSC minimum in Cornus racemosa occurs when the flowers start opening around June 1, but since NSC rapidly rises after that point & growth stages vary year to year, scout often to nail the date for cutting.
Can we use sumac control techniques on dogwood?
Since both of these often co-exist on a site & both are clonal, it’s tempting to think they respond to disturbance similarly. But there is a major difference between them. Dogwood is on the phalanx end of the phalanx-guerilla spectrum for clonal woody plants while sumac is on the guerilla end. The guerilla strategy is to quickly grow rhizomes relatively far from the central clone to test the suitability of habitat. The outer stems are spaced relatively far apart & tend not to resprout when cut. The inner stems do resprout & produce seeds. Phalanx is a slow advancement of closely spaced stems. The inner stems produce seed while outer ones conquer territory. Also, a study found the 2 had very different above ground carbon allocation, drought tolerance & photosynthetic capacity. So sumac & dogwood are likely to require different management techniques. For reference, multiple people have had success eradicating sumac clones by cutting just after flowering when root NSC is lowest (around July 1), then cutting the resprouts around August 1 for several consecutive years.
What are the results of single or multiple cuts in the growing season & cutting for multiple consecutive years?
Cutting in the dormant season is not effective since dogwood roots contain more than enough NSC to resprout in the spring. Cutting should be on the entire clone at once, to prevent photosynthesizing stems in untreated parts of the clone from sending resources to the treated part. Clones can grade into each other, making it difficult to know where one ends & another begins. Stems can store some NSC needed for resprouting, so cut them close to the ground. Leave as much ground vegetation as possible to help shade resprouts.
I have no anecdotal reports with enough detail & found only one useful study on cutting dogwood. The study was only 2 years long & didn’t treat entire clones. 2 consecutive years of cutting somewhat near the date where root NSC was minimum, then allowing one year of rest, resulted in root NSC returning to pre-treatment levels. That seems to indicate failure, but resprout growth was slow, which could indicate low NSC reserves before the rest period, or that the plant was actively allocating more resources to storage than to growth due to the disturbance. The second year of cutting produced less % cover than the first year. So there are small indications that cutting was hurting the plant. If they treated the entire clone at once & more carefully nailed the seasonal timing, their results would show more success. I think a single summer cut at the time of minimum root NSC for at least 3 consecutive years is worth trying. Installing a few small study plots will help you assess results by annually taking a picture & measuring average stem height, diameter & density. I wouldn’t adopt this strategy for large areas until experiments indicate it works in conjunction with burning.
Cutting twice in the growing season for multiple years should theoretically be better than cutting once, but I found no studies on it. It works for sumac, but as I pointed out earlier, that plant likely requires different management techniques than dogwood. The first cut should be timed for minimum root NSC. It’s unclear when the second cut should be (see the section below on seasonal timing) and it’s unknown if there will be any resprouts in the months following the 1st cut. Since I’m too busy with other weeds in the growing season, I’m not considering cutting twice in a year.
More on the timing of summer cutting
Besides cutting when root NSC is minimum, another strategy that works in some species is to cut late in the growing season. Studies admit it’s unknown why this sometimes works & they say more research is needed. One theory is this method can interfere with the plant hardening off before freezing temperatures arrive, causing injury or death. Because so much is unknown, I don’t think experimenting with this method is a good use of scarce resources.
A Kansas study on Cornus drummondii: An early May burn shifted the time of NSC minimum from late May to about July 1. It’s unknown if earlier spring burns would have the same effect. So cutting after a spring burn should perhaps be delayed until the resprouts fully open their leaves. In addition, root NSC was lower after a spring burn compared to unburned but a New York study with a late April burn didn’t show this difference. So it’s unknown if cutting after a spring burn is more effective compared to cutting without a burn.
What about burning?
As with most shrubs, fire increases stem density. A burn interval of over 2 years may be effective in preventing the establishment of some shrub species, but if in the past that interval increased temporarily, shrubs can establish & once that happens, you need intervals shorter than 2 years to prevent expansion. Even annual burns will probably not reduce clone coverage in some cases, but will likely stop expansion. Bill Kleiman at The Nature Conservancy Nachusa Grassland has kept dogwood density acceptable in one location by one summer mow followed by an average 1.5 year burn interval for 30 years. Rich Henderson of The Prairie Enthusiasts reports 30 years of near annual burning of an 8’ diameter clone resulted in only a few tiny stems. That indicates even small clones with relatively immature root systems are quite fire resistant. Each site will need to choose burn intervals based on factors like bird/insect populations & resource availability. Cutting dense clone centers before burning will gradually allow an adequate intensity of fire to reach all parts of the clone.
Herbiciding
The few studies I found on herbiciding dogwood used small treatment plots that included only part of the clone, so it’s likely untreated stems outside the plots provided resources to roots in the plot, making results worse than if the entire clone was treated. They also didn’t monitor for a long enough time to prove roots were killed. So I couldn’t use their results.
I also couldn’t use some anecdotal reports due to not mentioning whether entire clones were treated & lack of long term follow-up monitoring. Here are some of the more useful experiences:
· Rich Henderson of The Prairie Enthusiasts reports glyphosate cut stump is more effective than triclopyr, killing stems 6-12” away from the application point, indicating good translocation.
· A contractor reported cut stump herbiciding followed by 3 consecutive years of burning reduced it to the point where normal burn intervals will keep it in check. While many sites cannot do annual burning, this indicates that a single initial herbicide treatment could injure the clone enough that repeated annual disturbance (maybe substitute herbiciding or growing season cutting for fire in non-fire years) could lead to a permanent less intense invaded state.
· Stephen Packard reported dormant season basal bark or cut stump worked well on small, low density populations, but there were resprouts in denser ones. He said multiple years of herbicide will likely be needed.
· The late Tom Vanderpoel of Citizens for Conservation was very experienced & was bullish on dribbling herbicide on the stems in the growing season without the liquid reaching the ground, using only the best people & only in remnants due to labor intensiveness. For degraded areas he mowed & followed up with foliar herbicide.
· An anecdotal report from The Nature Conservancy Indiana found excellent control of Cornus racemosa by dormant season cut stump herbiciding followed by spring burning after bud break, repeating as many years as necessary. For most sites, burning at that time is undesirable or impossible, but the concept of weakening the plant with herbicide & then hitting it again with another stress when it starts growing is interesting.
Discussion & Conclusion
· Foliar spray is worth trying in degraded areas with no desirable natives. Theoretically the best time for foliar is when NSC is moving from photosynthesizing leaves to the root. For dogwood, this is mid-June in New York.
· Dormant season cut stump is very labor intensive for dogwood, but it removes biomass, which allows less moist conditions in dense clones, probably improving fire behavior. With the proper techniques, proper equipment & attention to precipitation events, there will be no off target kill. In one year, I saw dogwood sap flow with cut stump starting 4/11 but not on 4/26. So there is a narrow window when cut stump should not be performed. Based on Rich Henderson’s experience, more experiments are needed to replicate his results with glyphosate.
· Basal bark is also worth trying & is also labor intensive, but not as much as cut stump. However there are serious drawbacks using such a high herbicide concentration, especially if the applicator is not methodical & careful. If precipitation occurs within 4 days of application, enough herbicide can wash into the soil to cause a dead zone, even if the application is in the dormant season. Weather forecasts 4 days out are wrong often enough. Basal bark application in remnants must be done with a wick, squeeze bottle or paint roller instead of a sprayer, but it’s still easy to drip or fling herbicide into the ground. In degraded areas, if you use a sprayer for basal bark, you will have dead zones due to the small diameter of dogwood stems, so it isn’t recommended.
· It is unknown if any of the above methods are better than the other or whether dormant season basal bark or cut stump is worse than growing season. The disadvantage of growing season is most stewards are swamped with weed work & will have little time for woody plant control.
· Overall conclusion
Herbicides are probably a necessary part of dogwood management. Multiple application methods & how those interact with burning make it difficult to choose a path forward. The most appealing approach to me for higher quality areas is a carefully executed single dormant season cut stump or basal bark application to the entire clone, followed by a growing season basal bark application to resprouts or cutting resprouts at the time of minimum root NSC without herbicide. For herbiciding, 4 days precip free after treatment (maybe less for cut stump), no snow on the ground. In remnants, the same approach except omit growing season basal bark. For degraded areas, I think the best approach is to mow or cut when root NSC is minimum & foliar spray the resprouts. All treatments to be done at least 3 consecutive years. I think this strikes a decent balance between reasonable chances to be effective while minimizing labor time.
Can drought help?
Studies report dogwood is unlikely to be negatively affected by drought, unless it’s very severe.
Early invasions
If a new dogwood population appears in a prairie, it’s imperative to control it while the root is small enough to have limited NSC reserves. Stephen Packard reports basal bark or cut stump treatment is effective on small, sparse populations. The best method for a degraded area would be foliar spray (if no desirable natives present) or basal bark timed to coincide with minimum root NSC. For remnants, dormant season basal bark (4 days precip free after treatment, no snow on the ground) or growing season cutting at ground level timed to coincide with NSC minimum.
Experiments
We need more long term experiments for dogwood control. They should be done on obviously isolated clones. Nearby clones could be connected underground by grafting or rhizomes & if so, those untreated stems will send resources to resprouts in the treated area, making the results worse than if the entire clonal system was treated. Choose reasonably mature clones with larger root systems (stem height >3’ in clone center). A small monitoring plot should be installed in both the center & near the edge of the clone. Before treatment & yearly thereafter, take a picture in the growing season (to show % leaf cover) & measure average stem height, diameter & density. Results should not be reported until a burn has occurred & one year has elapsed since the last treatment. This is because above ground visuals don’t tell us if the root is dead or injured & in the latter case, resprouts may be delayed a year. Since it’s likely impossible to eliminate established dogwood, monitoring will tell us if treatment is trending toward a realistic goal of scattered small stems that can be maintained by 2-3 year fire intervals. More experiments using glyphosate instead of triclopyr for cut stump are needed. Hard water antagonizes glyphosate, so before using it with such water, order a Hach 5B hardness test (test strips may not have enough resolution). One study found a large decrease in glyphosate effectiveness at 50 ppm or mg/L. Test yearly.
For the remnant where I performed dormant season cut stump 2 years ago, I’m going to hedge my bets & try 2 different treatments. I’ll try cutting the resprouts this summer in half the area & dormant season basal bark in the other half, keeping in mind there was a full season of resprouting last summer (I was too busy to treat it & didn’t have a plan), which likely replenished root carbs. I performed cut stump herbiciding on a clone in the same area in fall of 2024 & installed 2 small monitoring plots. No burn is scheduled for 2025, so this will better indicate if resprouts are less in the clone center compared to the edges. I’ll perform annual summer cutting on this clone to see if one cut stump treatment followed by annual summer cutting is effective. I’ll also try dormant season cut stump treatment using 50% Roundup equivalent in softened water on an isolated clone. Hopefully, I can perform a summer cutting only experiment on an obviously isolated clone. I’d like to find a method that minimizes multiple herbicide events, putting the herbicide event in the non-busy dormant season & cutting once in the busy summer weed season with motorized equipment, which goes quickly. Since there are many variables site to site, the more stewards experimenting, the better.
I hate when treatments fail. All that works and then you get to do it all again. However, it happens to everybody.
ReplyDeleteIt does not only occur because of how herbicide was applied, time of year, or weather. There is inherent variability in how much herbicide is required to kill an individual plant (or in this case a clone). Often, applications throughout a given season will have good results, except in one spot that was treated in the middle of the season, without there being any reason.
It is rare that a plant will not show growth for a full growing season and then appear the second growing season after an herbicide application. When I have seen this, I have attributed this observation to not noticing small sprouts in taller vegetation. Once the sprouts grow taller, they are noticeable in subsequent years.
It is not reasonable to expect herbicide to be applied to a high level of accuracy. Even if the accuracy in the amount of herbicide applied for varying stem diameters was improved, the results would not necessarily be more consistent (see second paragraph). Therefore, I try to develop rules of thumb and stick with them. For example, since the larger diameter stems in the center of a gray dogwood clone are being controlled, nothing would need to be changed for how those stems are being treated. However, for smaller diameter stems you could treat the stump, let the herbicide soak in several seconds, then treat it again. Possibly for really small stems you would need to do this a third time. Really tough plants, like Asian Bush Honeysuckle, might need herbicide applied three times to the cut (letting it soak in between applications) to get good control of even large individuals.
There are lots of variables to consider. However, despite all of them there is an amount of herbicide that will kill a target plant at a given time. Unfortunately, there is no way to know this amount. Therefore, we aim for a certain percent control to minimize the herbicide that is applied and subsequent followup.
It would be useful if the number of stems growing in an area versus the number of stems treated was given in the above post. Even if there is sprouting after the treatment, if the number of stems is 10 percent or less of the number originally treated then you are getting good results.
You make several thought provoking points.
DeleteYour observation that a proven herbicide treatment can sometimes fail for no apparent reason is a good challenge for us to estimate plant cover or density before treatment & always revisit our work a year later to assess results.
Stephen Packard had the same thought as you that I could have missed small resprouts. I saw no leafy resprouts but could have missed leafless ones in the vegetation. Luckily, I cut stump herbicided (Garlon 4 equivalent) a clone in fall 2024 & no burn is planned this spring so this summer I’ll look very closely for tiny resprouts.
Your idea of double treating stumps is something I never thought of. Given the acreage & the high degree of woody invasion, I may not have the time to do that, but I hope someone can run an experiment using that technique.
Regarding stem density, I’ve setup plots in the clone treated in fall 2024, both at the clone center & the periphery. I measured density, stem diameter & stem height before treatment & will monitor it from now on.
I just thought of another theory on why I didn’t see resprouts in the growing season after dormant cut stump herbicide treatment. There are large uncut clones maybe 40’ away from my work area, sometimes with no apparent dogwood stems in between & sometimes with a few scattered ones. It’s conceivable the clone is actually huge & I treated only a portion of it. If that is the case, perhaps it takes a full year for the uncut part of the far away clone to send resources to the spot I treated. Root grafting between clones is also a possibility.
My suggestion would be to wait until at least Fall before looking at effectiveness. If you find sprouts in Fall then you can treat them. Fall is when herbicide applications tend to be most effective because plants are moving nutrients into the roots.
DeleteHerbicide blocks biological pathways. As herbicide dissipates, plants that have not been killed begin to grow and emerge later than typical. Industry standard for evaluating herbicide applications is a year from application date. Therefore, for your 2024 Fall application, surveying for publication purposes should not be done until 2026.
The time when photosynthesizing leaves are replenishing root NSC (which is often called "nutrients") varies with species. For dogwood, the study that measured root NSC throughout the growing season found this replenishment period to be about mid June in New York. I didn't research seasonal timing of herbicide treatment & it isn't clear to me whether the best translocation occurs during root NSC replenishment or along some other pathway at a different time of year. Also, many translocation studies involve foliar application. For example, a Corylus cornuta (a clonal plant) study found June or July foliar application much more effective than August. Cut stump in the growing season may be much different than foliar, as the cutting process will elicit a disturbance response from the plant that could move NSC from the root towards the stem if it tries to resprout. I'd like to see dogwood studies on this topic or hear about high quality field reports involving a range of herbicide dates before deciding there is a seasonal effect on herbicide efficacy. Also, I don't perform growing season basal bark treatment in remnants. Too much chance of doing more harm than good no matter how careful I am.
DeleteYou are right that I intend to monitor for 2 years before reporting anything.
Foliar application of Garlon 3A to invasive bush honeysuckle has been reported to have little effect in fall compared to a spring application.
Deletehttps://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/gtr/gtr_srs101/gtr_srs101-24.pdf
My observation of a treatment where invasive bush honeysuckle was sprayed with Garlon 3A in fall matches the low level of effectiveness reported in the above study. After seeing this happen once, I have not sought to repeat the experience.
Yes, a study where gray dogwood is treated through out the season would be useful in determining when a herbicide application would be most effective and how much herbicide needs to be applied at different dates.
Although, I must share that I have not had a problem getting excellent control when applying glyphosate to gray dogwood in fall. I have put my focus on other issues of pressing attention.
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I'd love to hear more about your success. Since many variables are involved, more details will help all of us decide if replicating your methods apply to the sites we work on. I understand if you don't have the details because for years I didn't keep track of such things. After many failures, I decided to start keeping track, even though I don't have the time for it. Key details for me would be clone diameter & stem height at the clone center (proxies for clone age/root size, which may determine herbicide efficacy), whether the clone was isolated from others, herbicide method (foliar or cut stump), how many consecutive years herbiciding was performed, upland or lowland (dogwood is more stressed in drier soils), herbicide concentration & what was the measure of success (total eradication, reducing density to the point that a defined fire interval in years kept it in check, etc?). My apologies for this maddening list , but with such a formidable invader, I feel it's the best way to make progress.
DeleteAlso, to correct what I said, I'm not reporting until 4 years after treatment starts. The study with 2 years followup on dogwood showed a possible negative effect on the plant, but after 1 year of no treatment, root NSC went right back to pre-treatment levels. So 2 years of cutting at minimum root NSC in summer is not enough. I added an initial cut stump herbicide & will do 3 years of summer cutting after that in the hopes it will be more effective, then I'll assess in year 4.
I think you are over thinking this all. Failure can be maddening and do that to someone.
DeleteI don’t think treating an entire clone all at the same time matters. At least this has not been my experience. Dead plant tissue does not transport food (starch) or nutrients.
Stem height was four to six feet.
I have no way of knowing if the clones were isolated or not. These were little prairie openings surrounded by dogwood and other woody invaders.
The herbicide method was glyphosate applied to stumps. I used 41 percent but later found a two parts herbicide to three parts water dilution of this herbicide was still giving me complete control of gray dogwood.
My recollection is that complete control of gray dogwood was achieved after the first application. This was several years ago and dogwood has not returned to a level that they are a target in these treatment areas. Although, other invaders have emerged as a problem.
The area was a low prairie that typically was moist in spring but dried out in summer.
The key to my success has simply been applying more herbicide. I make the cut in a shape of a cup so more herbicide is held on the stem and absorbed into it. This is accomplished by making cuts around the circumference of the stem and filling them with herbicide. This is similar to hack and squirt. When stems are small, as often is the case with gray dogwood, the above part of the stems frequently breaks off leaving bark sticking up around the wood in a cup shape.
Like with most things in life, doing it right the first time takes more time but in the end time is saved by not having to repeat the work.
Your detailed recollections are extremely helpful-thank you!
DeleteI’ve had the same experience with other woody plants that the minimum cut stump labeled rate for Roundup or equivalent of 50% product in water (20-27% glyphosate depending on formulation) works fine.
It’s possible that treating the entire clone matters when using less effective techniques or herbicide that doesn’t kill the root totally, as in my case, but perhaps your approach was effective enough to, as you say, kill or severely injure the roots in the vicinity of your treatment.
The fact you got at least a few years control with one application in a spot with reasonably moist soil is remarkable & I’m certain some readers will try it. With my limited time, overwhelming weed situation & aging body, I don’t think I can use your technique on thousands of small stems, but I admit a potential one shot solution is tempting. Your experience correlates with Rich Henderson’s in that glyphosate might be superior to triclopyr on dogwood, so I will definitely try a traditional cut stump with glyphosate & if that works well, then I won’t have to consider going to the lengths you did.
It sounds difficult to make cuts around stems and apply herbicide to the cuts. However, it is not difficult. It is much less strenuous than hauling logs to a fire. I use a knee pad to get down low to the ground. This allows me to work longer than if I use muscles to squat for long periods. For larger stems, making cuts around a stem takes less effort than using a hand saw to cut through it. The work can be tedious. However, working outside makes it enjoyable. Especially, when I work quietly and alone. Two weeks ago, I saw an immature bald eagle making a feeble attempt at geese on a pond.
DeleteI am sure triclopyr ester works fine on gray dogwood. I have not treated plots of gray dogwood with this herbicide and watched them over time. I have applied triclopyr ester in basal oil to small gray dogwood incidentally when I am treating other woody invasive species. I have seen others successfully treat gray dogwood cut stems with triclopyr ester in basal oil. This was two years ago, so I can take a look this spring and report if there has been any more recent changes in effectiveness.
Regarding triclopyr ester in basal oil, people should realize that the concentration of active ingredient being applied is much less than is typically used for glyphosate. Triclopyr ester has about 61 percent active ingredient. This is diluted between 1/5 to 3/10 volume/volume herbicide in oil. If the math is done, the percent active ingredient is much less than the 50 percent active ingredient or one-to-one volume/volume dilution of glyphosate in water typical used for when applying glyphosate herbicide to cut stems.
Like with glyphosate, the reason people think triclopyr ester in basal oil does not work is not enough is applied. Especially for smaller stems (less than about one inch) the cut surface must not only have this herbicide applied but also a length of stem proportional to the diameter. This size class encompasses the majority of gray dogwood stems. I create a table of the length of stem I cover relative to stem diameter for each invasive species and refine it every year. By doing this, some years I get good results and some years I get great results. Continual monitoring allows me to see failure and make appropriate changes.
I think monitoring is the fun part. I can stay outside and look at things all day. In contrast, I limited myself to at most five hours of work if I am doing something physical.
I love this ^^^.
DeleteI believe I heard of applying herbicide, letting it soak in, and then repeating from Stephen Packard. Likely, I read the suggestion to apply herbicide this way on this blog. However, it was many years ago and I doubt I would be able to locate the reference.
ReplyDeleteClonal woody plants in my experience are best controlled through repeated, growing season cutting. Nice thing about dogwood is that there is usually very little collateral damage in dense clones. Would be good on these posts to explain the reason for wanting to remove the plant in question too, especially when talking about removing native (opportunistic) plants. Seems like having a few clones in prairies/savannas adds beneficial structure and if there are relatively frequent fires occurring, they should keep the clones from spreading. Thanks for the analysis.
ReplyDeleteI'm interested in some more detail on your cutting experiences such as which months did you cut, how dense & how large the clones were when you started, how many years of cutting & how dense they were when you stopped.
DeleteI agree with you that dogwood is a desirable part of a landscape scale grassland ecosystem. But the site I work on, like most of them, is small & fragmented & the remnants are tiny. After observing dogwood for 4 years at this site, I decided all clones in the vicinity of remnants need to have their density reduced. Clones I treated 2 years ago now have plants like Valeriana edulis & Gentiana puberulenta popping up between resprouting stumps. 2 other issues are that the clones provide habitat for buckthorn, honeysuckle, etc & deter the desirable grassland birds from nesting nearby.
Have you looked at the literature for control of buck brush in the Great Plaines using summer mowing and burns. Summer burns occur when there is sufficient duff under the plants and has been shown to be effective in controlling brush. You'd need to time it around ground nesting birds and the flowering time of the plant.
ReplyDeleteSummer burning also hurts the vegetation we're working on dogwood to protect in the first place. Part of the promise of growing season, selective cutting has to do with competition from surrounding vegetation in addition to direct effects on the target. It essentially does what burning does, but not as much to the old growth sod as too the over-abundant woody plant.
DeleteSince grassland birds are a priority at my site, May through August burns are not possible, so I didn't research that topic. But it could be an option at some sites & it would be great if someone could research the literature to see if there is any hard evidence that the benefits outweigh the risks. Stephen's 8/4/23 blog post talks about summer burns. As for buckbrush studies on summer cutting, I started to read Great Plains papers on that & other species but I decided that species evolved in arid climates may have different responses to disturbance compared to the midwest, plus studies tend to show significant species specific differences in plant responses to disturbance. So I decided to limit my results. In so doing, I may be ignoring important information, but it takes so long to properly read these studies, I had to cut it off somewhere.
ReplyDeleteMy list may be helpful. It’s not comprehensive as fire wasn’t my main focus & I only read some of them. Stephen cautions that Great Plains studies (like many of these) may not apply to the eastern tallgrass prairie.
DeleteBriggs, lM., A.K. Knapp, and B.L. Brock. “Expansion of woody plants in tallgrass prairie: A fifteen-year study of fire and fire-grazing interactions”. American Midland Naturalist (2002) 147:287-94
Briggs, JM, AK Knapp, JM Blair, JL Heisler “An ecosystem in transition: causes and consequences of the conversion of mesic grassland to shrubland” Bioscience (2005) 55:243
Heisler, J. L., J. M. Briggs, A. K. Knapp, J. M. Blair, and A. Seery. “Direct and indirect
effects of fire on shrub density and aboveground productivity in a mesic grassland”. Ecology (2004) 85:2245–2257
McCarron, James K., and Alan K. Knapp. "C3 shrub expansion in a C4 grassland: positive post‐fire responses in resources and shoot growth." American Journal of Botany 90.10 (2003): 1496-1501.
Ratajczak, Zak, Jesse B. Nippert, and Troy W. Ocheltree. "Abrupt transition of mesic grassland to shrubland: evidence for thresholds, alternative attractors, and regime shifts." Ecology 95.9 (2014): 2633-2645.
Wedel, Emily R., Jesse B. Nippert, and David C. Hartnett. "Fire and browsing interact to alter intra-clonal stem dynamics of an encroaching shrub in tallgrass prairie." Oecologia 196.4 (2021): 1039-1048
Wilcox, Bradford P., et al. "Emerging frameworks for understanding and mitigating woody plant encroachment in grassy biomes." Current Opinion in Environmental Sustainability 32 (2018): 46-52.
I cut and treated every stump of a dogwood clone in fall 2023 with 20% triclopyr in oil. It was in a black oak barrens setting (but high water table). Purple fall color and low herbaceous productivity aided in detection. There were resprouts in 2024, but far less half the canopy cover. Resprouts grew to 6-12" high. The clone was in a late fall 2023 burn unit, but the clone area didn't burn due shading and poor fuels, but it did burn in late fall 2024 because herbaceous vegetation response was excellent. My plan is just to keep burning every dormant season and watch. Another clone that WAS burned in fall 2023 and not treated in fall was also reduced in coverage one year later, but resprouts were more vigorous (many 18" - 2ft. tall). In that case I plan to also keep burning (area was missed this last fall, but I hope to burn it between now and March 31). At the same site we are growing season cutting aspen and sumac spouts in conjunction with burning, and those have been reduced dramatically. It not only has to do with carbohydrates, but the demography of belowground buds in species that only resprout from buds (vs. adventitious) like sumac.
ReplyDeleteEach report increases our understanding of what variables are involved, so thanks for that. It’s interesting you had more resprouting in the growing season after treatment compared to the clones I treated in November & April with no spring burn (0% cover in most of the area). My resprouting was delayed until the next growing season after a spring burn & most stumps appeared dead (so I had root resprouts, not stump resprouts). Also, mine had a mixture of bare ground & high grass cover but resprouts in year 1 were nearly absent in both (except if I missed seeing inch high ones). Was the clone far away (lets say >100’) from other clones with no stems in between them? What was the stem height in the clone center before cutting & when was the last burn before cutting? That gives an idea of root size. I assume you used 20% of the product as sold (which for Garlon 4 is 60% triclopyr), resulting in applying about 12% triclopyr.
DeleteThe only possible differences I can think of between your treatment and mine is cutting too high (I’m guessing you cut close to the ground as I did), an uncut clone in the vicinity was sending starch to the roots in the cut area or your roots were larger than mine & either stored more starch or had more resistance to herbicide. It also could be that triclopyr is only weakly effective on dogwood, such that a small change in the magnitude of variables can make the difference between working and not working, instead of being just “noise” that can be ignored. I’m leaning towards that theory since Rich Henderson reports better results with glyphosate compared to triclopyr for cut stump of dogwood.
As in my case, it’s evidence that a single cut stump treatment using 20% Garlon 4 equivalent may not kill dogwood roots.
The highest stems were about 3ft. and the clone was about 50ft. across and isolated. The site had not been burned in memory prior to treatment. I used 20% active ingredient--not 12% (2 parts basal oil, 1 part ~60% product). I cut within 2" of the ground with hand pruners or loppers and treated cut ends and basally down the sides of what was exposed. Again, I was satisfied with the result, as recovery appears to be pretty anemic, and I'll keep burning, perhaps also growing season cutting the isolated stems. I know fire is limiting in most cases, but I really just think it comes down to reducing dogwood to the point that fuel (and underlying vegetation) recovers and then burning not less often than every other year. I don't care if it's gone so much as ecological process and appropriate species recover.
DeleteI like your definition of success. Your results combined with all the other information in this post suggests triclopyr isn't the best choice for dogwood. You had a fairly large clone & treated the entire thing at once with a high concentration of triclopyr, yet had quite a bit of resprouting. I had almost no resprouting in the growing season after treatment with only 12% triclopyr, but lots of resprouting the second season after a spring burn. It's not clear why our results were so different in the growing season after treatment, but in both cases we didn't see indications of root kill, except for perhaps the clone center in my case. My central stems were about 5' high. The studies I saw indicate annual burning (with no herbicide treatment) would probably satisfy your goal & 4 year burn intervals would probably result in clone expansion. I saw no studies on 2 or 3 year burn intervals. So hopefully your herbicide treatment weakened the clone a bit such that 2-3 year burn intervals will be enough.
DeleteOh, I wouldn't bother hitting it in the first place if I couldn't be burning it every other year or more often. While not dogwood specifically, both research at Cedar Creek and in the Flint Hills seems to indicate that two years is about where things go either one way or the other. ...and I really think anything >>50% reduction in cover after one pass is quite satisfactory for a clonal shrub. A lot of variables probably effect response--droughts, thatch, competition, etc. At this site, Liatris aspera cover within the original clone footprint was higher than dogood this past year.
DeleteHey Dan, could you share those studies re. burning frequency and woody encroachment?
DeleteThis blog has multiple confusing reply buttons so I hope this 2nd attempt ends up in the right place. This list may be helpful. It’s not comprehensive as fire wasn’t my main focus & I only read some of them. Stephen cautions that Great Plains studies (like many of these) may not apply to the eastern tallgrass prairie.
DeleteBriggs, lM., A.K. Knapp, and B.L. Brock. “Expansion of woody plants in tallgrass prairie: A fifteen-year study of fire and fire-grazing interactions”. American Midland Naturalist (2002) 147:287-94
Briggs, JM, AK Knapp, JM Blair, JL Heisler “An ecosystem in transition: causes and consequences of the conversion of mesic grassland to shrubland” Bioscience (2005) 55:243
Heisler, J. L., J. M. Briggs, A. K. Knapp, J. M. Blair, and A. Seery. “Direct and indirect
effects of fire on shrub density and aboveground productivity in a mesic grassland”. Ecology (2004) 85:2245–2257
McCarron, James K., and Alan K. Knapp. "C3 shrub expansion in a C4 grassland: positive post‐fire responses in resources and shoot growth." American Journal of Botany 90.10 (2003): 1496-1501.
Ratajczak, Zak, Jesse B. Nippert, and Troy W. Ocheltree. "Abrupt transition of mesic grassland to shrubland: evidence for thresholds, alternative attractors, and regime shifts." Ecology 95.9 (2014): 2633-2645.
Wedel, Emily R., Jesse B. Nippert, and David C. Hartnett. "Fire and browsing interact to alter intra-clonal stem dynamics of an encroaching shrub in tallgrass prairie." Oecologia 196.4 (2021): 1039-1048
Wilcox, Bradford P., et al. "Emerging frameworks for understanding and mitigating woody plant encroachment in grassy biomes." Current Opinion in Environmental Sustainability 32 (2018): 46-52.
The Konza / Flint HIlls work is probably quite applicable for woody encroachment, but one must realize that it's a prairie pasture system over-dominated by big bluestem and Indiangrass due to very long history of mid-spring burns being the dominant fire regime, and most burns in the research are also well post green-up, so may be different for that reason. Also, the grazing benefits for richness/diversity there are because grazing breaks big bluestem over-dominance and allows oppotunistic (mostly weedy) forbs to grow. Other work , but realize that after several decades cohorts of oaks can actually get going with as little as a 1-2 year pause in fire (this happened at Sugar River Savanna near Madison). https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11258-007-9270-4
Deletehttps://esajournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1890/1051-0761(2001)011[0914:PFIOSF]2.0.CO;2
But really I'd hang my hat on the sites I know where it isn't an increasingly serious issue, none of which are burned less often than every other year.
I decided to look at the herbicide label again & this is of interest. I notice the Garlon 4 label for “Basal cut stump treatment” regards 20% as the minimum acceptable & 30% for harder to control species. This treatment involves application to the cut surface as well as the stump sides & root collar. So they are focused on getting as much herbicide into the plant as possible. Even though they say not to apply to the point of runoff, this will be hard to pull off in practice on small stumps without getting herbicide into the ground, which will result in a dead zone. Then there is a “Cut stump treatment” section. For this method, you use 50-100% of product (50% in water not oil) & treat only the cut surface. It is for the hardest to control plants. Dogwood is listed on the label as a controlled plant, which means one of those concentrations worked when tested.
ReplyDeleteSo that may be the answer. I used 20% because for decades that worked for me on woody plants, but this is the first time I’ve tackled dogwood. I would not recommend using more than 30% in a remnant, plus 50-100% will get expensive & increases skin exposure hazard through chemical resistant gloves, all of which are permeable to some extent.
I apply triclopyr ester in basal oil all the time to the sides of stems without getting any on the ground. It just depends on if I am working in a high-quality area and choose to take the extra time to be careful.
DeleteI use a mini-paint roller and let it stop dripping in a bucket. I roll it slowly so the herbicide is not flung off the roller. Watch for and avoid the tip of small stems that can act as springs flinging herbicide. If multiple mini-paint rollers were used then they could be continually switched eliminated any waiting time.
When treating larger common buckthorns, I will point a mini-paint roller down in a herbicide bucket and let it drip for between 5 and 15 seconds. The longer the mini-paint roller is allowed to drip, the less herbicide it holds. For really large stems, more like trunks, I only let the mini-paint roller drip 5 seconds. For smaller stuff, I let the mini-paint roller drip for 15. When I want to treat carpets of seedlings without dripping herbicide on the ground, I let the mini-paint roller drip for the full 20 seconds.
I flip the mini-paint roller 180 degrees before beginning to apply herbicide. This gives me at least a second before the herbicide runs to the other end of the mini-paint roller. If I begin applying the herbicide fast enough it won’t drip. I start applying at the top of the stem and work my way too the bottom. This way, if herbicide runs down the stem the mini-paint rollers will absorb it as the applicaiton gets lower on the stem and the mini-paint rollers is holding less herbicide.
The tradeoffs of the above is having an open bucket of herbicide. If you tip over an open bucket of herbicide you will spill a lot. I have found that when I am not using a mini-paint roller, if I put the mini-paint roller end hanging over the rim of the bucket and the handle on the ground then a bucket will not tip over. Make sure you only place a bucket filled with herbicide down on level ground.
Mini-paint rollers and buckets are cheap compared to a Birchmeier sprayer. For large woody invasive species, having the speed of a sprayer is useful for treating the inside of branches of large multi-stem shrubs. If the outside of stems is sprayed, then the herbicide tends to drip. I prefer a mini-paint roller for coating the outside of stems of large multi-stem shrubs.
I think if you try to coat the cut and stems you will find 20 percent volume to volume triclopyr ester in basal oil works just fine on gray dogwood. A trip to Menards will get you everything you need.
I should have written, “I have found that when I am not using a mini-paint roller, if I put the mini-paint roller end hanging over the rim INTO the bucket and the handle on the ground then a bucket will not tip over.”
DeleteThis is very useful. We have similar encroachment issues with hazelnut. I'm wondering if anyone has experience controlling this species in a remnant prairie.
ReplyDeleteI don't have field experience with hazel but a Minnesota savanna study might be of interest. They selected multi-stemmed hazels unlikely to be connected to a main clone to prevent uncut leafy stems from helping roots in the cut area, so this may be comparable to treating an entire clone. They found that cutting once in late June or later resulted in much less resprouting than cutting earlier & it was more effective than cutting 3 times in the summer.
DeleteAs in dogwood, the hope is those results reflect depletion of root carbs, but other theories are possible. The plant may "know" it is late in the season & refuses to resprout much because there is too much risk of little gain for the effort. Another theory is the plant reacts to cutting by prioritizing protection & replenishing of root carbs instead of using those resources for resprout growth. A late summer cutting experiment would probably have to be repeated for at least 4 years before knowing if it works. The entire clone should be cut at the same time. To determine if it's working, I would estimate resprout biomass per square meter at cutting time (by weighing the cut stems) & see if there is a year by year decrease, indicating possible consistent root depletion without being replenished. But it may be hard to know at what point you can stop without the plant bouncing back after a couple years of not cutting.
Hazel is the primary issue on my personal pine/oak barrens project in NW WI. I generally cut and treat with glyphosate (20% active ingredient) in summer and triclopyr ester (20% active ingredient in other seasons). I have noticed kill extending beyond the leading edge of my cutting and treatment in both instances, but also sparse reprouting behind me, which so far has never amounted to anything, because deer hammer the repsrouting hazel. For that reason last year I started experimenting with just cutting swathes along the edge (it was 4th of July weekend last year). These all resprouted densely, but were hammered by deer and browsed down to stump level. We'll see how that develops. It's certainly a lot faster. I usually get fire on cleared areas within a year of cutting, but it's tougher up there because good burn conditions have to align with our trips, and my burn windows are 6pm to midnight under the general permit.
DeleteThis may be useful (huge reductions from research on multiple growing season cutting, or even one cutting in shaded conditions): https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378112710005852
DeleteFollowing an anecdote from Wisconsin DNR of sumac dying 50 yds from the treatment area and no off-target damage, last September (when there should be active translocation to the roots) I basal barked only the outer ramets of a sumac patch with a paint roller. I used 5% aminopyralid (Milestone) in basal oil with an emulsifier (Milestone is water, not oil, soluble). The entire patch died as well as ramets about 100 ft away. This year I will check for resprouting and off-target damage. I have heard that triclopyr translocates poorly between stems or root grafted individuals, making Milestone theoretically a better option for clonal shrubs. Soil activity is a concern, especially in high-quality grasslands.
ReplyDeletePlease report back after you assess growing season results to see if the root really died. Thanks for mentioning an herbicide I hadn’t considered because I’m working in a remnant. Nachusa Grasslands & a local contractor report good results using Milestone on black locust.
DeleteI wonder if reversing your strategy would work, that is, would the outer stems die if you applied herbicide to only the central part of the clone, where desirable natives are fewer?
A study supports your Milestone soil activity comment. They basal barked widely spaced trees with either 30% by volume Garlon 4 or 5% Milestone in oil & monitored ground vegetation the next growing season. 30% of the Milestone treated trees exhibited off-target effects on vegetation compared to 1% of Garlon 4 treated trees. Treating many stems in a dense clone would probably intensify off-target effects of Milestone. Per the label, 14 oz of Milestone per acre per year is the maximum that can be applied using spot spraying/painting, if less than half the acre is treated.
I'll do that. Thanks for the additional information. I like the idea of treating the center, I'll try that.
DeleteSome comments in this thread indicate fall herbiciding of woody plants may be more effective since carbohydrates are moving from crown to roots in that season & phloem-mobile herbicides presumably would move in the same direction. I’ve also seen that idea repeated in non-peer reviewed articles, so I wondered if the evidence backs it up. With the caveat that my research was not as thorough as with dogwood control, it appears there is species specific differences in the timing of when carbohydrates are moving from crown to root. The time of greatest movement in that direction is mid summer through November for several fleshy fruit tree species like apple & cherry. Oak, ash, maple & birch trees had little variation in root carbs throughout the year. Shrub species had large differences between them on the timing of root replenishment & within a given species, there was a large year to year variance. For barberry, the window of timing is as wide as the year to year variance so it’s impossible to time herbiciding. Honeysuckle & buckthorn are replenishing roots almost all summer into fall. Dogwood was done replenishing roots by late June one year & early October another year, so its very inconsistent. Most of the time, dogwood roots were being depleted after mid September, so fall may be the worst time to herbicide. To me it’s clear that trying to time herbicide application to carb movement is worthwhile only if you can locate a multi-year study that has measured root carbs for the species of interest in a similar climate.
DeleteI haven’t looked for studies that try to determine woody plant herbicide efficacy versus seasonal timing of application to see if best efficacy correlates to increasing root carbs. Glyphosate products for foliar state the best efficacy is late summer or fall. For Milestone & Garlon 4 foliar, timing is species specific with fall usually not the best time. So that correlates to the species specific findings for root carbs. For Garlon 4 basal bark or cut stump, the labels state to apply anytime. Herbicides are very complicated, so carb movement may be only part of the picture for determining efficacy.
All of this is not to say that herbiciding at a given time of year will or will not be effective. It just means for some species, certain times of the year may be better than others.
The reason I mentioned scheduling, is I know for a lot of species there is best control, less herbicide required, or an application is only effective when herbicide is applied at a certain time. For example, crown vetch is best treated with Transline before or after flowering. Phragmites must be treated in the fall, if you want the government to pay you. Purple loosestrife requires less herbicide, and off-target damage is not visible, if glyphosate is applied to cut stems in fall. Sumac control is more effective if glyphosate is applied in fall instead of winter.
DeleteI have not studied when the best dates to apply various herbicides to gray dogwood occur. I tend to do woody species control in late fall/winter when I have the time. I have not had a problem getting complete control, without there being visible off-target damage, when applications were done in late fall or winter. Therefore, I have not tried applying herbicide to gray dogwood in different seasons to optimize effectiveness and minimize herbicide that must be applied.
You should get in touch with the people doing work at Yorkville Prairie (the Friends volunteer website can get you their contact information), they have reclaimed several acres from a monster patch of gray dogwood and that work started around November of 2022 I think. Their cleared area edges up to what remains of the large original patch so they'd have insights on dealing with issues being adjacent to live large root masses. Maybe someone should ask those guys to provide a summary??
ReplyDeleteI've cleared out several patches of each type of dogwood at Hitt's without signs of it returning (monitored for two summers) using both Roundup (cut stump) and Garlon 4 mixtures (I cut 6" high and treat stump and stem) per my management plan requirements. Look at your application requirements and don't confuse a 20% garlon 4 mixture with a 20% mixture of a 60% mixture of Garlon 4%. Use a small roller for application. There is a lot of research and "feelings" on what exactly to use for your basal oil but MSO seems to be most effective basal oil for everything I treat, but it is possible I have not given other basal oil options a fair enough trial. My "advisor" and the IDNR/INPC folks seem to think I do a very good job with regards to brush clearing and treatment.
Your post is valuable & I’ll contact the Yorkville folks.
DeleteWhat % of Garlon 4 product (which contains 60% triclopyr) did you use?
Based on my experiment, comments from others & the Garlon 4 label, my working theory is 20% Garlon 4 in oil (the minimum recommended on the label) is not enough for consistent site to site cut stump treatment of dogwood. Assuming your clones were somewhat mature (>3’ high in the center), your good results might be because you cleverly used a hybrid approach between basal bark & cut stump. You cut very high, allowing you to get lots of herbicide into each stem by rolling the bark.
Good point that oil type is another variable. I thjnk it’s fair to point out that following the label gives the best odds for success for those with no time to experiment. The Garlon 4 label advises to use basal oil & to consult the oil vendor’s label for other types. My MSO label restricts use to herbicides that call for MSO or crop oil concentrates.
You’re correct that herbicide concentrations are an endless source of confusion. When communicating results to others, I encourage people to report % concentration using the name of the product as sold (trade name), such as “Garlon 4” or “Cornerstone”. Reporting the common name (like “glyphosate”) is ok among experienced practitioners, but adds unnecessary confusion when addressing audiences with wide experience levels.
Good tip regarding Yorkville. Christopher Hanley of the Oswegoland Park District reports the following experience with dogwood.
DeleteAt Yorkville Prairie they performed meticulous cut stump treatment on dense colonies of grey dogwood, using 25% Garlon 4E in bark oil. The clones were likely mature since stem height was up to 7’ & stem density was evenly distributed. They cut low to the ground, applying herbicide to both the cut surface & sides of the stump with a sponge attached to a sprayer nozzle. After initial treatment, they performed followup cut stump treatment for 3 consecutive years plus there were 2 burns since treatment began. This labor intensive approach was possible because it’s a small site with available volunteers.
The results are a steady decrease in stem density from high to low-medium. He didn’t see large decreases in leafy stem density followed by a large increase like I did. Potential reasons for the different results are 1) they treated the sides of the stump, getting more herbicide into the plant than I did 2) there may be differences in underground rhizome connections with distant untreated clones 3) both of us used Garlon 4 concentrations at the low end of label recommendations, making efficacy more dependent on small site to site variables.
So a multi-year labor intensive effort has yielded encouraging results, but it is still unknown when followup treatment can stop, because leafy dogwood resprouts might be able to replenish root carbs even with a 2 year burn interval. I would caution against using higher than 25% concentrations of Garlon in areas with desirable natives during dormant or growing seasons, especially if woody stem density is high. Unpredicted precipitation events, dripping/flinging or root exudation (the latter is only a theory) might cause off target damage to native plant roots as well as to the soil microbiome.
20%v/v I was told to cut tall when possible seems to work really well on buckthorn. Garlon 4 ultra actually uses seed oil base for its solvent right in the jug. Your label species "oil" (from diesel to specialized basal). A wide range of oil products are considered "basal oil" and the there are specialized marketed oils sold as basal oil - some people even use diesel or kerosene (shouldn't use that Corteva on the right track using seed oil). Spray mixes needing a surfactent (MSO one of a number of these) will specify right on the label which surfactant to use. There are many surfactants that are in fact seed oils (without something extra or two added) Li-700 good surfactent buffered against Northern IL hard water. THere are also MSO products buffered with Li-Tech for protection against harsh water. I ask around 4 times whether concentration is from the bottle or active chemical.
ReplyDeleteI can't snip here and Dow is pretty tight on technical information. See the link for a product disclosure on Garlon Ultra 4 use of MSO for its solvent. https://www.seedranch.com/Garlon-Ultra-4-Herbicide-p/garlon-ultra-4-herbicide-2-5.htm (40% of the jug is MSO)
DeleteThanks for the info. Cutting at ground level is sometimes necessary for various reasons so each site will have to think that through. For many years I & others cut buckthorn close to the ground & applied 50% Roundup in soft water or 20% Garlon 4 in bark oil to the cut surface with excellent results, so there are multiple ways to skin a cat.
DeleteOne caveat on your method, which is essentially basal bark. Coating 6” of the stem won’t consistently work site to site on all labeled species. The Garlon 4 label recommends 12-15”, which agrees with multiple other sources. But your results are valuable because its more evidence that my failure could be a combination of not getting enough herbicide into the plant & using too weak a concentration. Since I’m in a remnant & cannot confidently prevent off-target effects after treating hundreds of dense stems, I’ll switch to glyphosate or summer cutting for all further experiments.
The fact that both Garlon 4 & typical MSO labels do not suggest use of MSO for basal bark or cut stump makes sense. MSO reduces spray drift, decreases evaporation rate on leaf surfaces, increases adhesion to leaf surfaces & increases penetration into leaves, so its intended for foliar use. The reason Garlon 4 contains MSO is for better effectiveness on herbaceous weeds when mixed with water. The most effective product for basal bark & cut stump is one that is labeled for those application methods.