Introduction
Brad Semel and Melissa Grycan have thrillingly important and impossible jobs (see Endnote). They have responsibilities, among others, for the State’s endangered species and the habitats they depend on. For example, Blanding’s turtle numbers have been plummeting – and not just from loss of their prairie habitat. Their biggest challenge starts with the lack of apex predators (wolves, pumas, and bears) … which has led to an overabundance of meso-predators (especially raccoons) which eat all the eggs soon after they're laid, year after year. Most all Blanding’s turtles found today are old. Many sites have a few, but no young, and no future without some help. So Brad and Melissa have taken initiative to protect turtle eggs whenever they can. If the young turtles get past the egg stage and disperse, they can cope. But it takes hours to find a single turtle before she lays her eggs. With hundreds of other species and tens of thousands of acres of needy habitat, how sustainable is that? Friends volunteers offered to help, and Melissa welcomed them, if they’d organize it. The post below was written by one such volunteer, Sonya Siefering, a busy mother of three with no college science background. And yet ...
A Voyage of Discovery, Staying Home
by Sonya Siefering – Friends Volunteer
My family and I live 15 minutes from Illinois Beach Nature Preserve. Over the last 25 years, we have enjoyed its waves and dunes, walking the paths, and trying to identify birds, plants, and insects. Raising three kids nearby has been powerfully influenced by Lake Michigan and the Preserve. This changing shoreline inspired my oldest daughter, Bronte, to take up birding and learn and teach sailing to kids. She sneaks in environmental info as she talks to her students. Recently she’s added the Preserve’s cactus and Blanding’s turtles to her repertoire.
My son, Rafael, and I talk often of how our house is near heavily polluted industrial sites in Waukegan, and these sites in turn are adjacent to the amazing prairie, savanna, dunes, and beach Nature Preserve. We’ve discussed the history surrounding this State Park that I found in old newspapers, and we feel incredibly lucky to have access to such a treasure. It has been like discovering another planet: there's a "dead river," bizarre Endangered plants like downy yellow paintbrush and Pitcher’s thistle, not to mention the Endangered animals like piping plovers and Blanding’s turtles. One of our goals is to try to find Karner blue butterflies which have not been seen for years; we both like watching and identifying insects. I will always be in awe of Lake Michigan's seiches and the way the shoreline constantly changes.
Rafael and I started with the Dunesland Restoration Group in March. He's a college student, studying environmental science and biology, and his course schedule worked out that he had free time mid-March until September. I had seen Facebook notifications about volunteer work at The Beach, so I thought, why not? The first several workdays we cut and burned invasive trees that were killing the rare vegetation underneath. Rafael was much braver throwing them on the fire than I was. I was dubious about the fires at first, but I appreciated their purpose.
Growing up on a farm, I spent most of my time outside. My parents taught us some tree, insect, plant and bird IDs. I had a favorite bur oak in one of the pastures. I like to read about native environments, and I’ve naturalized my home property as much as I can take on every year. But volunteering with the Dunesland group, showed I'd only skimmed the surface. Indeed it’s like taking classes in ecosystems, geology, biology and forestry every weekend. I study as much as I can during the week to try to catch up with what I half learned the Saturday before.
Then the turtle season began, and I volunteered. Yes, I could help a turtle across the road. I’ve carried chickens and piglets, so how different could this be? Then, one of the lead volunteers, Regina, sent the spread sheet, maps and instructions. This Endangered species is declining mostly because elevated populations of raccoons eat most of their eggs. So I’d be locating and collecting female turtles for egg protection. Anxiety hit; this was big. They’re wild and weigh three or four pounds. What was I thinking? Bronte gave me the speech I had used on Rafael a month earlier about comfort zones and moving ahead even when you’re scared. Ultimately, I thought the likelihood of actually finding a turtle ready to lay egg was remote. I watched videos online and read a few articles.
I asked Ali Fakhari, a field rep with the Friends, who’s helping coordinate the project, if I could shadow him one evening, so he explained the plan, grabbed a plastic tub, and off we went. He chose the north unit, which was great because I hadn’t walked there before. We hiked through sand prairie for two hours and didn’t find anything, but I learned a lot about where to look, and Ali is fun to hang out with.
A few days later I set off with my youngest daughter, Ivye. She grabbed the tub and asked, “How many turtles do you think will fit?” I explained that this process was more like hunting for unicorns – we probably wouldn’t find a single turtle. Her enthusiasm deflated, but she enjoyed playing in the sand at the beach. She’s twelve and the moods are as difficult to gauge as the seiche in the lake. I needed to plan these turtle evenings better. I convinced my husband, Jerreau, to hustle home from work one evening so all three of us could “hunt.” We took a blanket and water bottles, Ivye played in the sand, they skipped rocks on the water, and I hunted for turtles. Still no luck. The next trip we added in picnic dinner, and our system for beach evenings was set, but it was chilly that evening, and still nothing.
Then Ali sent an email informing us that park staff had found a female the night before, but she had already laid her eggs somewhere. Again, my husband and daughter skipped rocks, and I searched. The sun was setting behind the trees, and it was getting late. I told myself to look until 7:50pm when we needed to head home. Then I saw a large, oval, dark “rock” ahead. As I approached, I realized it was a Blanding’s using its back legs to dig a depression in the sand. This critter was big. It hissed a little when I touched it.
I yelled for Jerreau and Ivye, who waved back from the beach, thinking I was just checking in to say hello. I yelled “TURTLE” very loudly, and Ivye came running, holding out the tub. They both started asking me questions, and I had to stop and think through instructions. Ivye went to get water from the lake for the turtle tub. Jerreau started taking photos. I sent photos to Ali and was soooo relieved he called to coach me. Yellow throat = Blanding’s, yes. Flat belly = female, yes. Digging depressions in the sand = displaying laying behavior, yes. Then I called Melissa after sending photos, hoping she would pick up, at 8:00 in the evening!
Melissa is the official northern Illinois Department of Natural Resources scientist and goddess who supervises staff and volunteer work at this and many other parks. Intimidating. What if she was annoyed I was calling her at night? But after two seconds I realized my fears were silly. Melissa is one of the most patient, kind people I have ever had the pleasure to talk with. She said she’d contact the ranger to open the nature center for us. She was excited about the find! I remembered to put a pin on the map to record our location. Ivye told me not to worry because she could remember where we’d been when we needed to take the turtle back.
Jerreau, Ivye and I packed up all our picnic stuff, secured the turtle in the tub, took more photos, and made a beeline for the van, with the turtle thumping around loudly in the tub. The walk back felt like forever, and it was getting dark quickly. We were close to the parking lot when Ivye yelled “TURTLE!” And there she was, another little Blanding’s, hiding behind some grass. We put our gloves back on, and I called Melissa – “Is it okay to put two turtles in one tub?” She was thrilled. As we got closer to the car I saw a tiny snake. I had been eager to see a DeKay’s snake and asked Jerreau to get a video. I think he thought I was losing my mind. He pointed out that it was dark, we had two turtles banging around in a bin, and a ranger waiting for us at the nature center. I’m lucky he’s patient!
We were quiet in the car, all three of us trying to digest what had just happened and thinking about what to do next. Jerreau drove while I held the tub on my lap. Two turtles thumped around. Might the big one harm the little one? Melissa was texting about access to the nature center. I must have used the phrase “be careful, they’re endangered” about twenty times that evening, mostly to remind myself.
Ranger John left the nature center open for us. He had just flipped on some lights, left the door ajar, and went back to work patrolling the park. It felt a little like we were breaking in. My husband was reading the Home Safe chip reader instructions while Ivye put water in the big tub. We slowly weighed and measured the biggest turtle first, since she had been confined longer.
I filled out the data sheet for each turtle. It felt chaotic even though we tried to make it scientific.
When they were both in the big tub to spend the night, we apologized for intruding into their lives by offering them sardine treats, hoping they’d forgive us. We took more photos and let Melissa know we were finally heading home. It was 10:00pm by then.
Our daughter, Bronte, was waiting for us, a little worried because it was so late. We showed her the photos, shared the saga, took showers, and checked for ticks. After posting photos of our two turtle finds on the Dunesland Group WhatsApp, I sent photos to Rafael, on a conservation internship in Belize. He called right back, and we told the tale again. We were so tired, but none of us slept very well. I was worried we had found the turtles too late. Had they already laid their eggs to end up as raccoon food? I had dreams about my mom. Ivye woke up and said she had a weird dream about riding a turtle. She dreamed about riding unicorns when she was younger.
Next day Melissa let me know that both turtles were gravid and doing well. She found IDs for them based on identifying notches in their shells. Olga “the bigger one” was probably about 50 years old and laid 16 eggs! The little one was Vasquez, who laid 11 eggs. I met with Melissa the following morning so Ivye and I could take Olga and Vasquez back home to where we picked them up. I thanked the turtles for sharing their eggs and providing twenty-seven little globes of hope, not that they had any choice. Every time I talk or text with Melissa, she shares more and more information. Again, I feel like a Kindergartner, but it’s an amazing classroom.
We’ve found a total of five turtles so far. My husband has been looking more seriously, and he’s found two! One of his finds was a “new” turtle who had never been tagged before. She was little but really feisty, and laid 12 eggs! He decided to name her Pistachio because he wanted a name that would make people smile. I wish Rafael was here to hunt with us, but he’s having a different, amazing life adventure.
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Some older turtles have rough yellowed shells. This younger one had spots "like constellations in a starry sky." This little turtle is the one we named Artemis. She laid an impressive 16 eggs. |
Ivye and I drove out to Moraine Hills State Park, where Melissa was so kind to show us the incubation containers. What an amazing operation! And Melissa is incredible to manage all that along with her dozens of other projects. My grandmother incubated eggs and raised fowl, so I know it takes care, caution and organization. Ivye and I picked up two turtles from Moraine to bring back to the beach, hoping to help Melissa a bit with time. It must be wild for Melissa to schedule into her week all the extra driving, locating extra incubators, securing a larger number of eggs than predicted, etc. Again, she’s amazing!
On the prairie near the beach, I can almost see what it might have been like 300 hundred years ago, with grassy, low, soft “dunes” along the strips of prairie and wetland that parallel Lake Michigan. We’ve found three turtles here. But now there are locust, oak and cottonwood trees trying to take over different sections of this soft, grassy strip. Melissa will consider whether removing those trees might improve habitat for endangered Blanding’s turtles and the prairie overall. She asked me to send an email with a proposal. Maybe it would help?
In all, we found seven turtles at Illinois Beach. I just got an update from Melissa – our total is 111 beautiful eggs! Two more were found and eggs protected at Chain of Lakes State Park. We’ve contributed to a legacy, and we’re proud to be on the team.
“As we found our last turtle, we also witnessed a small group of people operating a motorbike and a 4-wheeler on the beach, spinning wildly. As we left we also found their tire tracks on almost the exact site where we found Pistachio. I alerted Melissa, and she called the Zion Police, but the officer arrived after the men had gone. I spoke to a family in the Hosah parking lot as we were heading to the nature center last night, and they had also seen everything. They had spoken directly with Mike, the responding Zion officer (who they know personally), so I hope the beach will be patrolled more frequently.”
Destruction of Nature Preserve habitats should become a thing of the past. If people witness it, call 911 right away!
Endnote
Who’s Who? And more details.
Melissa Grycan has overall responsibility for the ecological management of Illinois Beach and many other state parks. She’s the Natural Heritage Biologist with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources for the northeastern part of the state.
Brad Semel is Endangered Species Specialist for northern Illinois, also with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources.
Some staff and volunteers with the Friends of Illinois Nature Preserves are highlighted in previous posts on this blog, especially Story 9 of Nine Stories.
While pulling malignant white sweet clover last year, Friends volunteers ran across a baby Blanding’s turtle that likely was one that Brad Semel had rescued the previous fall.
Many rare or endangered species are being lost, even from protected conservation land, because of invasive species, lack of fire, and predator imbalance – threats like those facing the Blanding’s turtle. Harder to understand but even more important is the loss of high-biodiversity remnant natural areas – wetlands, woodlands, and prairies. These harbor thousands more rare species and ancient relationships among species that may be important to the future of the Earth ecosystem – and (an easier sell to some people) to human medicine, agriculture, science, and economy.
In one of the midwest's most significant natural areas along Lake Michigan here, the larger prairie/wetland/savanna habitats of the Blanding’s turtle and more than sixty other endangered species, credit also goes to the staff and volunteers of the Lake County Forest Preserves, Zion Park District, and the adjacent Chiwaukee Prairie, just across the border in Wisconsin. Yet all are spread too thin. Neither Melissa Grycan nor Brad Semel, with enormous responsibilities, supervises even a single full-time support staff. So much more is needed. The public cares, but is insufficiently informed. Government doesn’t provide adequate resources for issues that people don’t understand and care about. We all can spread the word and help build support for needed conservation action.
Thus, the contributions of Ivye, Bronte, Rafael, Jerreau, and Sonya are important on many levels.
Acknowledgements
Well-told story by Sonya Siefering.
Proofing and edits by Rebeccah Hartz and Eriko Kojima.